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Fishing light attractor

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In this video, dozens of 15-18 inch speckled trout are attracted to a 1000 W green light mounted on a pier.

A fishing light attractor is a fishing aid which uses lights attached to structure above water or suspended underwater to attract both fish and members of their food chain to specific areas in order to harvest them.

Just as fisherman seek conditions where the chance of catching fish is optimized, so fish seek areas where the chance of catching their food is optimal. Most game fish seek waters that are rich in food such as smaller fish, insects or shrimp. And, it follows, that these smaller fish, insects and shrimp congregate where their food is most concentrated.

Scientific research shows that all of this food chain has eyes sensitive to the colors of blue and green. This probably evolved because the water that these animals live in is blue to greenish in color, depending upon how much and what kind of particulate matter is suspended in the water. Pure water containing little particulate matter scatters light in the blue-purple region of the spectrum. Human eyes see this water as blue. If water is rich in nutrients and contains photosynthetic microorganisms and plants, the chlorophyll in their bodies preferentially absorb red light. The remaining, unabsorbed light is transmitted and scattered, thus giving the water a greenish appearance. If the water contains a lot of organic material from decaying plant life or suspended sediment, it may take on a yellow-brown color.

Fish and some members of their food chain have color receptors in their eyes optimized for the light of their pace. Eyes that can see a single space color can detect changes in light intensity. This is equivalent to a world in black, white and shades of gray. In this simplest level of visual information processing, an animal can recognize that something is different in its space.e., that there is food or a predator ver there. Most animals living in a lighted world have an additional visual resource: color vision. By definition, that requires that they have color receptors containing at least two different visual pigments. To efficiently perform this function in water illuminated with light, an aquatic animal would have visual pigments sensitive to the background pace color and one or more visual pigments offset from this blue-green region, say, in the red or ultraviolet region of the spectrum. This imparts a clear advantage to these animals because they can detect not only changes in light intensity but also contrasts in color. Many fish, for example, have two color receptors, one in the blue region of the spectra (425-490 nm) and the other in the near UV (320-380 nm). Insects and shrimp, members of the fish food chain, have blue, green (530 nm) and near UV receptors. In fact, some aquatic animals have up to ten different classes of visual pigment in cells of their eyes. By comparison, humans have three with maximum sensitivities in the blue (442 nm), green (543 nm) and yellow (570 nm). It is the differential responses of these receptor cells that enable color vision.

It has been known for a long time that a light attracts fish, shrimp and insects at night. But what is the best color for a light attractor? Based on the biology of visual receptors, the light should be blue or greenhe space colors of fish and members of their food chain. However, while blue or green colored light is desirable it is not essential. Even if fish or members of its food chain have color receptors in their eyes most sensitive to the blue or green spectrum, these same receptors have a broad but decreased sensitivity to other colors. Therefore, if a fishing light source is intense enough, other colors will also attract. For example, a sodium vapor light with its characteristic yellow color will attract fishf intense enough. A fishing light attractor can also be white light because part of its total energy is in the blue to green region.

The perfect fishing light would have the following properties: 1) high intensity, 2) emit its light in a color similar to the fishes space (blue or green), 3) be powered by a portable electrical supply and 4) be submersible. The last attribute is desirable because significant amounts of light energy from land- or boat-mounted lights are lost by reflection off the surface of the water. No one commercial light satisfies all of these criteria. Many high intensity lights such as tungsten-halogen (incandescent), medium pressure mercury or metal-halide discharge lights are so power hungry that they can only be operated for very short periods of time on a battery, thus limiting convenient portability. While green colored LEDs and low powered fluorescent lights draw less electrical energy, they are not very bright. Further, many lights cannot be submerged in water without risk of electrical shock or damage to the light system.

Fishing lights fall into two groups: those that are portable and those that are permanently mounted. Generally, portable lights are powered by batteries and this sets practical limits to the kind of light that can be used. Most portable light sources are relatively low in light intensity and have short operating times. Lights drawing more than a few tens of watts are not practical. The old classic, a 12 volt automobile incandescent headlight mounted on a Styrofoam float ring, is probably the least expensive and lasts for a few hours before the battery is discharged. Battery-operated fluorescent lamps are three times more efficient in converting electricity to light. Therefore, comparing lamps of similar brightness, they can be operated about three times longer before the battery is discharged. Also, the lifetime of fluorescent lights are about ten times longer than incandescent lights. Commercial portable fishing lights based on fluorescent lamps vary widely in intensity. The best use 25-40 watt lamps that emit about 10003000 lumens per tube. Costing $160-$200, they are available through the internet, sport stores and catalogs. Lights made up of LED lights are an up-and-comer but to date are 10 to 100 times less bright than a fishing light using a standard 25-40 watt fluorescent lamp. LEDs are extremely efficient in converting electrical energy to light. As the cost of LEDs decrease and their brightness increases, expect to see functional fishing lights consisting of large arrays of LEDs.

Permanent lights are supplied with adequate power sources - typically, 115 volt house current. Placed on poles at the end of a dock or pier, the least expensive lights for outdoor use are mercury vapor, high pressure sodium vapor, metal-halide discharge and fluorescent flood lights. While low cost 115 V AC outdoor flood lights using standard tungsten (incandescent) or tungsten-halogen (quartz) bulbs are also effective fish attractors, they are energy inefficient. It takes about five 100 watt tungsten lamps to deliver the light equivalent of one security lamp. Security lights are readily available from most hardware or farm supply stores and cost $30 to $90. The fixture includes a photocell controller for automatic dusk-to-dawn operation and comes complete with the appropriate bulb. These lights are very bright (6-8 thousand lumens), efficient in converting electricity to light (operated daily for 8 hours costs $40-$100 per year), have long bulb lifetimes (24,000 hours) and stand up well to outside weather conditions. When used as a fishing light, more light can be redirected toward the water by installing a 5 X 10 piece of aluminum flashing or heavy foil bent into a half circle inside the lamp's circular acrylic lens.

Stadium spot lights are energy efficient and their superior brightness can illuminate a large area of water. Rated at 250, 400, 1000 and 1500 watts, the high intensity discharge lamp, parabola-shaped reflector and light ballast are each sold separately. A complete light fixture and lamp costs about $400-$500. The cost of lamps with different wattage ratings are roughly the same, so most people chose higher wattage lamps. These lamps emit white, blue-green, green or yellow light. For most fishing waters the lamp color of choice is green. They are available through specialty light stores. It takes two people to install these big lamps and the installation may also include a switch, timer, heavy gauge wiring and circuit breaker, thus adding to the cost.

It should be noted that despite the excellent brightness of these lamps, a significant fraction of the light shining on the surface of the water is lost by reflection and thus will not be available to attract fish and their food chain. These security lights can also be modified to operate submerged in water. Positioning the bulb underwater delivers approximately twice as much light to attract fish. However, the modification must be done professionally as the high voltages that power these lamps can be lethal. The power ballast and lamp housing is mounted on a pole in a dry location. The lamp, potted in a waterproof housing, is connected to the ballast via a waterproof cable. Floating like a bobber, the lamp is positioned underwater by weights. The bulb is fragile so some manufacturers offer protective covers and hard lenses. However, a unique feature of a submerged, exposed bulb is that its outer glass envelope gets hot enough to prevent establishment of marine growth. Occasional cleaning is required when the bulb has a protective cover or is not operated daily.

The cost of operating a light depends on how much power it uses. A permanently fixed fishing light attractor is most effective if it is operated every night. It may take up to a week or two for larger fish to discover the increasing concentration of bait fish surrounding the light. Once discovered, the fish return regularlyften arriving at predicted times of the evening.

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What is the best way to integrate magnetic levitation into my model diorama?

I am making a model of a sci-fi tank that uses anti-gravity as part of the propulsion system. I was thinking of using rare earth (NdFeB) magnets with opposite poles facing to create the anti-gravity effect.
I am also wondering if I should also use same pull strength magnets on both the model and base? Should some magnets be used as attractors to keep the model steady and from flying away on its own?
I am making a model of a sci-fi tank that uses anti-gravity as part of the propulsion system. I was thinking of using rare earth (NdFeB) magnets with opposite poles facing to create the anti-gravity effect.
I am also wondering if I should also use same pull strength magnets on both the model and base? Should some magnets be used as attractors to keep the model steady and from flying away on its own?

I would like to have an open space below the tank to put a couple of that army's soldiers underneath for a dramatic effect.

If you build high enough "walls" around the magnet base, then it should hold the model steady while it floats...it won't shoot off into space, so don't worry about that. It's like a bullet train concept...except the track locks the train in as it glides across the magnets.

RWFF... Tying the Trude Dry Fly