Fly Fishing

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Bluewing Olive Parachute Mayfly 14 1 Dozen Trout Fishing Flies $6.99 Time Remaining: 27d 16h 11m Buy It Now for only: $6.99

1 DZ HI VIS PARACHUTE CADDIS OLIVE 12 DRY FLIES TROUT $0.99 (1 Bid) Time Remaining: 10h 56m

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1 DZ BLUE WING OLIVE PARACHUTE 12 DRY FLIES TROUT $0.99 (1 Bid) Time Remaining: 11h

Bluewing Olive Parachute Mayfly 16 1 Dozen Trout Fishing Flies $6.99 Time Remaining: 29d 10m Buy It Now for only: $6.99

1 DZ HI VIS PARACHUTE CADDIS OLIVE 18 DRY FLIES TROUT $0.99 Time Remaining: 11h 24m

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Lot One Dozen Size 12 Foam Parachute Orange Wing Olive Fly Fishing Flies NR F18 $0.99 Time Remaining: 1d 12h 39m

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1 Dozen Parachute BWO Blue Wing Olive Dry Fly Trout $7.49 Time Remaining: 2d 2h 35m Buy It Now for only: $8.99

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1 DZ HI VIS PARACHUTE BLUE WING OLIVE 18 DRY FLIES TROUT $0.99 Time Remaining: 1d 11h 34m

2 Blue Wing Olive Parachute 16 BWO dry flies $1.75 Time Remaining: 2d 13h 13m Buy It Now for only: $1.75

Lot One Dozen Size 12 Foam Parachute Orange Wing Olive Fly Fishing Flies NR F18 $0.99 Time Remaining: 1d 4h 45m

2 Blue Wing Olive Parachute 20 BWO dry flies $1.75 Time Remaining: 19d 15h 53m Buy It Now for only: $1.75

Lot One Dozen Size 12 Foam Parachute Orange Wing Olive Fly Fishing Flies NR F18 $0.99 Time Remaining: 1d 16h 23m

2 Blue Wing Olive Parachute 18 BWO dry flies $1.75 Time Remaining: 19d 15h 52m Buy It Now for only: $1.75

1 DZ HI VIS PARACHUTE CADDIS OLIVE 14 DRY FLIES TROUT $0.99 Time Remaining: 2d 11h 10m

1 dozen 12 Blue winged Olive parachute 14 FREE SHIPPING $6.79 Time Remaining: 11d 18h 56m Buy It Now for only: $6.79

Parachute Blue Wing Olive 1 Dozen Size 10121416 or 18 Quality Flies $7.00 Time Remaining: 7d 6m Buy It Now for only: $7.00

1 dozen Hi Viz Parachute Caddis Olive 14 Dry Flies NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 14h 11m

BLUE WING OLIVE PARACHUTE FRONTIER FLY FISHING FLIES $8.46 Time Remaining: 28d 17h 34m Buy It Now for only: $8.46

1 dozen Foam Parachute Blue Wing Olive 18 Dry Flies NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 13h 20m

2 Blue Wing Olive Parachute 12 BWO dry flies $1.75 Time Remaining: 3d 14h 15m Buy It Now for only: $1.75

1 dozen Parachute Blue Wing Olive 16 Dry Flies NR $0.01 (1 Bid) Time Remaining: 6d 15h 43m

12 Olive Daves Indicator Parachute Inchworm Dry Fly $8.99 Time Remaining: 10d 19h 19m Buy It Now for only: $8.99

1 dozen Parachute Blue Wing Olive 18 Dry Flies NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 15h 44m

1 Dozen Parachute Extended Body Olive Drake Mayfly Dry Fly Trout $14.99 Time Remaining: 21d 2h 39m Buy It Now for only: $14.99

2 Blue Wing Olive Parachute 14 BWO dry flies $1.75 Time Remaining: 3d 14h 15m Buy It Now for only: $1.75

1 dozen Parachute Blue Wing Olive 14 Dry Flies NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 15h 42m

Olive Hares Ear Parachute sz 16 3 Flies $2.79 Time Remaining: 16d 10h 44m Buy It Now for only: $2.79

1 dozen Foam Parachute Blue Wing Olive 16 Dry Flies NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 13h 19m

Olive Hares Ear Parachute sz 18 3 Flies $2.79 Time Remaining: 24d 10h 6m Buy It Now for only: $2.79

1 dozen Foam Parachute Blue Wing Olive 22 Dry Flies NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 13h 22m

BLUE WING OLIVE PARACHUTE FRONTIER FLY FISHING FLIES $7.61 Time Remaining: 28d 17h 33m Buy It Now for only: $7.61

1 dozen Foam Parachute Blue Wing Olive 14 Dry Flies NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 13h 18m

2 Indicator Parachute BWO Blue Wing Olive 18 $1.75 Time Remaining: 15d 15h 30m Buy It Now for only: $1.75

Olive Hares Ear Parachute sz 12 3 Flies $2.79 Time Remaining: 14h 21m Buy It Now for only: $2.79

1 dozen Parachute Blue Wing Olive 22 Dry Flies NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 15h 46m

HI VIS PARACHUTE BLUE WING OLIVE FLY SHOP FISHING FLIES $8.46 Time Remaining: 20d 14h 52m Buy It Now for only: $8.46

1 dozen Hi Viz Parachute Caddis Olive 16 Dry Flies NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 14h 12m

1 Dozen Parachute BWO Blue Wing Olive Dry Fly Trout $8.99 Time Remaining: 21d 2h 1m Buy It Now for only: $8.99

1 dozen Parachute Blue Wing Olive 20 Dry Flies NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 15h 44m

2 Indicator Parachute BWO Blue Wing Olive 14 $1.75 Time Remaining: 15d 15h 30m Buy It Now for only: $1.75

1 dozen Parachute Caddis Olive 12 Dry Flies Trout NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 15h 51m

6 PARACHUTE SLICK WATER CADDIS OLIVE 2 EACH SIZES 14 16 18 $11.95 Time Remaining: 13d 12h 59m Buy It Now for only: $11.95

PARACHUTE GULPER BLUE WING OLIVE 20 FLY FISHING FLIES $8.46 Time Remaining: 9d 40m Buy It Now for only: $8.46

1 dozen Parachute Caddis Olive 14 Dry Flies Trout NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 15h 52m

2 Blue Wing Olive Parachute 22 BWO dry flies $1.75 Time Remaining: 19d 15h 54m Buy It Now for only: $1.75

1 dozen Foam Parachute Blue Wing Olive 20 Dry Flies NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 13h 21m

Blue Wing Olive Parachute Dry Fly size 16 x 1 $0.99 Time Remaining: 19d 16h 29m Buy It Now for only: $0.99

1 dozen Parachute Caddis Olive 16 Dry Flies Trout NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 15h 53m

2 Indicator Parachute BWO Blue Wing Olive 16 $1.75 Time Remaining: 15d 15h 30m Buy It Now for only: $1.75

1 dozen Parachute Caddis Olive 18 Dry Flies Trout NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 15h 54m

CDC PARACHUTE K BLUE WING OLIVE 16 FLY FISHING FLIES $8.46 Time Remaining: 11d 37m Buy It Now for only: $8.46

PARACHUTE BLUE WING OLIVE 22 FLY FISHING FLIES CUSTOM $8.46 Time Remaining: 11d 15h 36m Buy It Now for only: $8.46

1 dozen Parachute Blue Wing Olive Hi Viz 20 Dry Fly NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 15h 49m

CDC PARACHUTE K BLUE WING OLIVE 14 FLY FISHING FLIES $8.46 Time Remaining: 11d 38m Buy It Now for only: $8.46

1 dozen Parachute Blue Wing Olive Hi Viz 16 Dry Fly NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 15h 47m

12 PARACHUTE MIDGE OLIVE FLY FISHING FLIES 16 $15.79 Time Remaining: 12d 2h 50m Buy It Now for only: $15.79

1 dozen Parachute Blue Wing Olive Hi Viz 18 Dry Fly NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 15h 48m

3 Parachute Olive Trout Fishing Flies Size 12 $6.88 Time Remaining: 8d 4h 33m Buy It Now for only: $6.88

1 dozen Parachute Blue Wing Olive Hi Viz 22 Dry Fly NR $0.01 Time Remaining: 6d 15h 50m

Blue Winged Olive Parachute BWO Size 18 3 pack $2.39 Time Remaining: 25d 21h 8m Buy It Now for only: $2.39

Olive Parachute

Susur Lee’s Magical Mystery Tour

Susur Lee’s Magical Mystery Tour

Wrinkled parachutes cast a rosy glow on circle booths at Shang. Photo: Steven Richter

It says a lot about the souped-up speed of gentrification in New York and even more about Susur Lee that he was willing to close his rocking hit restaurant Susur in Toronto for Shang, a hotel dining room above Orchard Street. It must have seemed quite a lure at the moment of commitment: The Thompson LES hotel with a world class restaurant in Manhattan’s hottest new zip code. Now, with escalating financial wipeouts and even crazed nocturnal nomads pinching dollars, there’s more riding on Lee’s back than just his ponytail.

Every country has its own Chinese food flourish: Chef Lee honors that fusion. Photo: Steven Richter

Yes, he looks like a movie star and talks like a poet, flashing briefly through the dining room with its big round booths and giant crushed fabric parachutes casting a rosy glow. Lee clearly knows it’s his to lose. From the look of the Saturday night crush in the dining room – the preferred age group, vogueish but not slavishly so, masters-of-the-universe-in-waiting, still dancing on the edge – Lee’s already got an audience that could build a buzz. Two longtime veterans of hip, one from Nobu, one from Matsuri at the entrance obviously have the required Rolodex. Tonight’s early responders are not just peripatetic first-nighters but also Saturday daters and even locals, a good-looking stew skewing young that might build the vital word of mouth if they like the food as much as we do.

What is it like? "What are the Beatles like?" you might have asked before hearing the Liverpudlian four. Like no one, would have been the answer. Susur Lee’s magical tour has taken him from Hong Kong, to Toronto, to Singapore with its triangle of influences – Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia – back to Toronto and now he hopes to woo New York with these lyrical inventions. His food is unique, unlike anything I have tasted here, often thrilling, endlessly inventive, whimsical and traditional in the same dish, daring and delicious. His passion for design almost never overwhelms his mastery of texture and layered flavors. He counts on a trusted second from his days in Singapore as he drives the kitchen to his astonishing tune, is his own pastry chef (and also fields room service). Be warned. Come with friends you like. In this first ten days, the kitchen can be slow.

Caramelized wild sablefish with mustard green relish and salmon roe. Photo: Steven Richter

You don’t have to know that the chef wants to honor the Chinese Diaspora. “Wherever Chinese food goes, it changes with each country. I want to honor that tradition.” Call it fusion, I suppose, but look for more at Shang. From time to time, a notion seems totally Chinese.  Crispy taro puffs – four of them lined up without embellishment on a plate – are a dim sum you might encounter in Chinatown, except for that velvety surprise of curried egg salad inside. (Taro is a special weakness of mine that not everyone shares.) A big tangle of chickpea sweet onion fritters on puddles of ginger-mango chutney and minted yogurt – orange on one side, green on the other – links to India and possibly Japanese tempura. Splendid lobster croquettes filled with salty duck egg, lemon balm, shallot and the tang of chili-lime juice is a generation removed from China, reminiscing.

Nineteen ingredients and toasted hazelnuts give Singapore slaw its crunch. Photo: Steven Richter

Lee’s signature Singapore slaw is the perfect opener (one order is more than enough for four, no matter what your

Celestial seafood tofu. Photo: Steve Richter

server says). Toasted hazelnuts and a puckery taste of sour plum dressing add to the crunch and flavor of 19 ingredients. Sashimi of madai with pickled daikon, celery sprouts and lemon purée, plus caramelized wild sablefish, then lobster-shrimp croquettes with Malay black pepper sauce have us raving on our first visit. Dishes arrive two or three at a time with a clean round of rectangular plates for tasting, white with a tiny red rabbit on the rim – the chef’s astrological sign. I’m a fool for turnip cake, including this one, rife with eggplant, Cantonese-preserved black bean and shiitakes. With so many exotic notions, it would be easy to overlook steamed potato dumplings. They sound so ordinary. Don’t be fooled. Carved away with a triangle of their almost-veil-thin crust attached, the dumpling is marvelous and full of surprises. Crisp-skinned young garlic chicken with sweet-and-sour onion marmalade is remarkably juicy.

The young garlic chicken is crackly-skinned, moist within. Photo: Steven Richter

Less thrilling is the Beijing cucumber salad, a too thick-skinned oxtail soup dumpling in chicken-coriander broth, and coin-like slices of octopus with tomatillo and tomatoes. Cardamom-scented carrot and chili-mint chutneys plus glazed bananas can’t save bland Mongolian lamb chops. But the triumphs blur the flubs. And even though we’re all groaning from the excess, our host, a legendary gourmand, can’t stop ordering. I am still able to appreciate the saving grace of orange and lemongrass granité on lemon curd with passion fruit gelée and bitter orange sorbet. I didn’t really need the lemon tart with lemon parfait and raspberry coulis in tea sauce or the coconut crème caramel with Chantilly and black rice pudding at the bottom, but I tasted – loved them both – and survived.

The chef’s dessert range:  granité, warm tong yuan, and lemon tart. Photo: Steven Richter

I can’t wait to share this revelation with Chinese friends and taste more dishes even though it costs $30 one way and takes forever to creep and lurch through traffic from the Upper West Side. It’s my second visit this week. We must repeat the slaw, the potato dumplings, the taro puffs and my favorite dish of all – steamed tofu custard with crab, shrimp, lobster, baby mussels and air-dried scallops in Tanjin bouillon, a superior stock of duck, pork and ham – sheer umami. The black hairy stuff is desert moss (not “dessert” as typoed), a green that grows outside Beijing. Thin slices of pork loin wrapped around green beans with mustard and almonds should provide safe haven for tofuphobes and finicky eaters but I won’t waste my calories again. I love squab and foie gras in wrappers imitating Peking duck but the lotus crepes are leathery by the time they reach our table. Spicy slow braised beef cheek, fatty and luscious, is perfect. Served with soft brown rice and olive preserved vegetables, one portion is enough for four to taste, especially, if like me, you’ll eat too much anyway. And with so many options $12 or less, and everything else (except Kobe beef) $25 or considerly cheaper, you can spend a little or a lot. Include a $3 order of mantou whole-wheat Chinese bread to sop up sauces, and you probably won’t want to stop for a burger on your way home.

187 Orchard Street. 212 260 7900. Closed Sunday. To avoid a steep flight of steps at the Orchard Street entrance, enter through Hotel Thompson LES at 190 Allen Street. Take the elevator to 2.

Copyright Gael Greene 2008 www.insatiable-critic.com

About the Author

travel & food writer

If fire fighters fight fire, and crime fighters fight crime, what do freedom fighters fight?

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